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A Color Specialist

Colourist based in the West Coast who focuses on platinum tones. He works with Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I swear by a gentle drying cloth, or even a smooth cotton shirt to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much harm a typical terrycloth towel can do, notably with grey or color-processed hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another affordable staple is a large-gap comb, to use during washing. It shields your locks while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the strands, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A high-quality styling iron – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the actual fact is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients melt their hair, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I also don’t recommend chemical straightening processes on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often excessively strong for already fragile strands and can cause chronic issues or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. Some overuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is using hot tools sans safeguard. If you’re using hot tools or dryers without a protective product, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. For direct application, minoxidil is highly proven. I often suggest scalp formulas with active ingredients to enhance nutrient delivery and aid in hair growth. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps remove residue and allows products to perform better. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, stress and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Follicle Expert and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to preserve strand health, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are remarkably effective if you have areas of scalp visibility. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had noticeable thinning – and also currently as I’m going through some marked thinning after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say medicated treatments. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the optimal outcomes. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the opposite is true – notably in cases of dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which options help with shedding?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will resolve on its own. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus