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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.